Nong Khai and the Mekong: Sala Keoku, the Friendship Bridge and Laos Day Trips

Published 1 October 2026 · By the Visit-Thailand editorial team · Editor: Terje Moy

Nong Khai is a quiet provincial town on the Thai bank of the Mekong, directly across the river from the Lao capital, Vientiane. Most visitors come for three things: the giant concrete sculptures of Sala Keoku, slow days on the riverside, and the First Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge, which carries road traffic and, since 2024, passenger trains through to Vientiane.

It is one of the easiest places in Isaan for a first visit: small enough to cycle around, with guesthouses by the water and a relaxed pace that makes many travelers stay longer than planned. If you are planning a wider trip in the north-east, start with our guide to Isaan; this page covers Nong Khai itself and the crossing to Laos.

Sala Keoku: the sculpture park

Sala Keoku (also written Sala Kaew Ku) is the reason many people make the trip. It is a garden of enormous concrete figures from Buddhist and Hindu belief: deities, demons, animals and scenes from the cycle of life, some of them many stories tall. The largest, a seven-headed naga sheltering a seated Buddha, is around 25 m high.

The park was created from 1978 by Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, a mystic teacher, and his followers. He had earlier built the similar Buddha Park (Xieng Khuan) on the Lao side of the river, near Vientiane, so you can see both if you cross. His mummified body is kept on an upper floor of the main pavilion.

The site is a few kilometers east of the town center, an easy bicycle or tuk-tuk ride. We could not find an official page for the entrance fee or opening hours, so check them locally; go in the early morning or late afternoon, when the light is softer and the concrete has not yet soaked up the heat. Dress modestly, because the pavilion is a religious place; our guide to temple etiquette explains what that means.

Slow days on the riverside

Nong Khai's best feature is simply the river. A promenade runs along the Mekong in the town center, with views across to Laos, and the evening walk at sunset is the daily ritual. Near the promenade, the Tha Sadet market sells everything from dried fish to clothes and household goods traded across the border.

Renting a bicycle is the ideal way to see the town. You can follow the river east towards Sala Keoku, stop at temples along the way and be back for dinner by the water. Wat Pho Chai, in town, is one of the most revered temples in the region; it houses Luang Pho Phra Sai, a gilded Buddha image that, according to local tradition, was brought across the Mekong from Laos.

Around Ok Phansa, the end of Buddhist Lent at the full moon of the 11th lunar month (usually in October), crowds gather along the Mekong in Nong Khai province to watch for the "naga fireballs" said to rise from the river. Dates follow the lunar calendar; our page on Buddhist holy days explains how they are set.

The First Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge

The bridge was the first major crossing over the lower Mekong. Australia paid 42 million Australian dollars, through its aid agency, for the studies, design and construction between 1991 and 1994. King Bhumibol presided over the opening ceremony on 8 April 1994 with the Lao president and the Australian prime minister, and the bridge opened to traffic on 23 April 1994. It carries road lanes and, in the center, a single metre-gauge railway track, which opened on 5 March 2009. The word "First" was added to its name after a second Friendship Bridge opened at Mukdahan.

Crossing to Vientiane: train, bus or road

There are three common ways across. The train is the newest: since 19 July 2024, passenger trains have run beyond the old Thanaleng terminus to Vientiane's new Khamsavath station, including a through train from Bangkok. Thai exit formalities happen at Nong Khai station and Lao entry at Khamsavath. There are only a few trains a day, so check the current timetable and fares with the State Railway of Thailand or at Nong Khai station.

Alternatively, you can go by road: take a tuk-tuk to the border post at the bridge, complete Thai exit formalities, cross the bridge on the shuttle transport used at the crossing, and pass Lao immigration on the far side. International buses also link Nong Khai and Udon Thani with Vientiane. Vientiane's center is some distance from the bridge, so you will need a taxi or bus on the Lao side.

Visas for Laos, and getting back into Thailand

Laos sets its own entry rules, and they depend on your passport. For British citizens, the UK government says a visa is required, and that you can either apply online for a Lao e-visa at least five days in advance or get a visa on arrival at many entry points. Since 1 January 2025 a Lao tourist visa is valid for 30 days. Citizens of some countries, including several ASEAN members, can enter Laos without a visa; check the official Lao e-visa site or a Lao embassy for your nationality. Carry US dollars or Thai baht in cash for fees, and our guide to exchanging money in Thailand covers getting cash before you go.

Coming back is the part people forget. Every re-entry to Thailand needs a new Thailand Digital Arrival Card (TDAC), filed free online within three days before arrival; see our guide to the TDAC. As of October 2026, visa-exempt visitors get 30 days on each entry, and the Tourism Authority of Thailand says entries through land borders under the exemption are generally limited to two per calendar year, with nationals of Malaysia, Brunei, Indonesia and Singapore exempt from that limit. The UK government words the limit more broadly, as two visa-exempt entries per calendar year in total.

Getting to Nong Khai

By train. Nong Khai is the end of the north-eastern line in Thailand. Long-distance trains leave Bangkok from Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal, and SRT sells tickets for the special express trains 25 and 26 up to 90 days ahead. The overnight trip is a classic way to arrive; see the guide to Thailand's night trains and how to book Thai trains online.

By air. The nearest airport is Udon Thani, about 50 km to the south, with frequent flights from Bangkok. Vans and taxis connect the airport and town with Nong Khai in about an hour.

By bus. Buses run from Bangkok's northern terminal (Mo Chit) and from Udon Thani and Khon Kaen.

Frequently asked questions

Can you take the train from Nong Khai to Vientiane?

Yes. Since 19 July 2024 passenger trains cross the Friendship Bridge to Khamsavath station in Vientiane, replacing the old service to Thanaleng. Thai exit checks are at Nong Khai station and Lao entry checks at Khamsavath. Check current times and fares with the State Railway of Thailand.

Do I need a visa for Laos at the Friendship Bridge?

It depends on your passport. Many nationalities need a Lao visa and can get one on arrival or as an e-visa in advance; some, including several ASEAN nationalities, are visa-free. Everyone must also complete the Lao Digital Immigration Form online before arriving at Friendship Bridge I.

Does a day trip to Laos count as a land entry into Thailand?

Yes. Re-entering Thailand at Nong Khai is a land-border entry. Most visa-exempt nationalities are limited to two such entries per calendar year (October 2026), though nationals of Malaysia, Brunei, Indonesia and Singapore are exempt from the limit. You also need a new TDAC.

How much time do you need for Nong Khai?

Two nights is enough for Sala Keoku, the riverside, a bicycle ride and the market. Add a night or two if you want to visit Vientiane, or combine Nong Khai with Udon Thani and the World Heritage Site at Ban Chiang.

Sources

• Australian Embassy Thailand – History of the Friendship Bridge (checked October 2026)
• UK FCDO – Laos travel advice: entry requirements (checked October 2026)
• Lao Ministry of Foreign Affairs – Lao eVisa official site (checked October 2026)
• Tourism Authority of Thailand – New 30-day and 15-day visa exemption rules (checked October 2026)
• UK FCDO – Thailand travel advice: entry requirements (checked October 2026)
• Immigration Bureau – TDAC frequently asked questions (checked October 2026)
• Tourism Authority of Thailand – SRT opens 90-day advance booking (checked October 2026)