Pastel Sino-Portuguese shophouses with shutters and balconies along Thalang Road in Old Phuket Town
Phuket guide

Old Phuket Town: Sino-Portuguese Streets, Food and the Sunday Market

Shophouses, Peranakan food, the Sunday Walking Street and the free old-town bus.

Photo by CEphoto, Uwe Aranas or alternatively © CEphoto, Uwe Aranas · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · resized and cropped

Old Phuket Town is the historic center of Phuket Town, a grid of streets lined with colorful Sino-Portuguese shophouses built by Hokkien Chinese tin-mining families. Go for a morning or an evening: walk Thalang, Dibuk and Krabi Roads, eat the island's Peranakan-influenced food, and, on a Sunday, visit the evening Walking Street market on Thalang Road.

Most visitors stay on the beaches of the west coast and never see this side of Phuket, which is a pity. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, tin brought Chinese settlers from Fujian and from Penang, and European mining companies. Their mix of Chinese and European architecture survives in the old town, where many shophouses are still family homes and businesses rather than museums. UNESCO lists Phuket in its Creative Cities Network for gastronomy, largely because of the food traditions these families kept alive.

Readers from Singapore, Penang and Melaka will recognize a great deal: the five-foot ways, the tiled floors, the kueh and the Baba family names. Phuket's version is smaller and quieter, and that is much of its charm.

Old Phuket Town in brief

Where
The center of Phuket Town, east side of the island
Main streets
Thalang Road, Dibuk Road, Krabi Road, Phang Nga Road, Soi Romanee
Time needed
Half a day; add an evening for food or the Sunday market
Sunday Walking Street
Thalang Road, Sunday from late afternoon into the evening
Free shuttle
Smart Bus "Dragon Line" loop round the old town
From Patong
Smart Bus Patong–Bus Terminal 1 route, 50 baht (October 2026)
From the airport
Orange Airport Bus 8411, 08:00–21:00

Thalang Road and the shophouse streets

Thalang Road is the heart of the old town and the best place to start. The two-story shophouses stand shoulder to shoulder, joined at street level by a covered walkway that shelters you from sun and rain. Look up: the upper façades carry stucco decoration, shuttered windows and pastel paint, and many buildings have been restored as cafés, guesthouses, galleries and small shops.

The houses are narrow at the front but very deep. According to the Tourism Authority of Thailand, some run back 50 meters or more, with the shop at the front and the family's rooms, kitchen and even a well behind. Soi Romanee, a short lane running off Thalang Road, is the most photographed corner, with brightly painted houses. TAT notes that a hundred years ago this part of Thalang was known for its brothels; today the visitors come for the stucco.

From Thalang Road, walk along Dibuk Road and Krabi Road for the larger buildings. Krabi Road has the Phuket Thaihua Museum, a former Chinese-language school in Sino-Portuguese style, now with exhibitions in English on the tin and opium trade, immigrant families, their food and their clothes. It is the best single stop for understanding what you are looking at. Large mansions built by the tin-mining families stand nearby; most are private and seen from the street.

Walk the old town before 10:00 or after 16:00. The streets are short and easy to cover on foot, but the middle of the day is hot and the light is flat. Early mornings are quiet and good for photos; late afternoons lead straight into dinner.

The Peranakan and Baba heritage

The Chinese workers and merchants who settled in Phuket married into local families, and their descendants are known as Baba (men) and Nyonya (women), the same Peranakan culture found in Penang, Melaka and Singapore. Families kept Hokkien customs, food and dress, mixed with Thai and Malay influences.

You see the heritage in the Chinese shrines on the old-town streets, in the decoration of the shophouses and above all in the food. The Thaihua Museum explains the customs, dress and family history in more depth than any street walk can.

The biggest event in the old town is the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, a Taoist festival held in the ninth Chinese lunar month, when the streets fill with processions and food stalls go meat-free. In 2026 it runs from Saturday 10 to Sunday 18 October. Our guide to the Phuket Vegetarian Festival explains what to expect; book accommodation in town early if you plan to stay during it.

What to eat in Old Phuket Town

Phuket's food is distinct from the rest of Thailand, and the old town is where to try it. Look for these dishes on menus and at stalls:

Most of these are cheap, family-run and busiest in the morning; many small places close in the afternoon or sell out. Muslim and halal food is also easy to find in Phuket Town; our guide to vegetarian and halal food in Thailand explains what to look for. If you are not used to street food, our guide to avoiding stomach trouble from street food has simple rules. Small stalls usually take cash or Thai QR payment; Alipay and WeChat Pay are accepted in some shops, but not at most stalls.

The Sunday Walking Street (Lard Yai)

On Sundays, Thalang Road closes to traffic and becomes Lard Yai, a walking-street market. Stalls sell local snacks, Peranakan sweets, handicrafts and souvenirs, and there is usually music or performances. It starts in the late afternoon and continues into the evening; vendors' times vary, so arrive around 17:00 to 18:00 to see it at its best before the biggest crowds.

There is no official timetable for the market online, and it can be canceled for heavy rain or on special occasions, so ask your hotel on the day. If you are not in town on a Sunday, the old town still has plenty of evening food. Our beginner's guide to Thai night markets explains how to order and pay.

Keep your bag in front of you at the Sunday market. Thalang Road gets very crowded by early evening. Phones and wallets in back pockets are the easy target in any packed market in Thailand.

Getting around: the free Dragon Line

The old town is walkable, but the Phuket Smart Bus "Dragon Line" is a free electric shuttle that loops round it, with stops including the Thaihua Museum, Dibuk Road, Wat Mongkol Nimit and Phuket Bus Terminal 1. Sources disagree on the hours: the operator's current route map says buses leave every 30 minutes from 07:00 to 19:00, while a 2025 TAT notice gave 10:00 to 21:00 every 15 minutes. Check the live map at the Phuket OneMap site linked by TAT before relying on a late bus.

Getting to Old Phuket Town from the beaches

Phuket Town is on the east side of the island, across from the west-coast beaches. Your options:

Staying in Phuket Town itself is cheaper than on most beaches and good for food lovers, but you will need transport to swim. Our comparison of Phuket's beaches helps you choose. A visit to the old town also combines well with the Big Buddha in the south, and our Phuket guide covers the rest of the island.

Frequently asked questions

Is Old Phuket Town worth visiting?

Yes, especially if you are interested in food or architecture. It is the best place on the island to see Phuket's Hokkien and Peranakan heritage, and the shophouse streets are compact enough to explore in a morning or an evening.

What day is the Phuket Old Town walking street?

Sunday. Thalang Road closes to traffic and becomes the Lard Yai walking-street market from late afternoon into the evening. There is no official timetable online, so check with your hotel on the day, especially in the rainy season.

How do I get from Patong to Old Phuket Town?

The cheapest way is the Phuket Smart Bus between Patong and Phuket Bus Terminal 1, which costs 50 baht (October 2026). From the terminal you can walk into the old town or ride the free Dragon Line shuttle. Grab and taxis are faster.

What is Peranakan food in Phuket?

It is the cooking of Phuket's Baba families, descendants of Hokkien Chinese settlers who married locally. Typical dishes include mee hokkien noodles, moo hong braised pork, o-tao oyster omelet and Nyonya sweets, all close relatives of dishes found in Penang and Singapore.

Sources